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Elise Joseph is not a designer. She does not manufacture clothes. Nor does
she have a boutique. What she has is an eye.
Run into Joseph on the street, and her clothes look just like those she touts
on her fashion and lifestyle blog Pennyweight. Something that looks comfortable
yet modestly elegant, like she's somehow managed to find all of the elusive
urban legends that comprise a personal wardrobe. The worn, lived-in jeans. The
perfect-fitting leather jacket that can dress up or down. The neutral shift
dress that skims her lanky frame, never revealing too much skin. The bag that
goes with everything.
Joseph never wears anything that looks like she tried too hard. That quality
— a natural, minimalist grace — may help explain why more than 1.3 million
people follow Pennyweight on Pinterest. They buy on her recommendation. They
look to her tastes, even though she's located about as far from a coastal
fashion center as a tastemaker can get.
But why would Nashville Fashion Week award its highest honor — a cash prize
from the Nashville Fashion Foward Fund — to a local blogger, as opposed to a
local designer or manufacturer?
Nashville Fashion Week is used to such skepticism. When it launched in 2011,
many wondered why the city would even bother. Nashville lacks many of the
components that drive a profitable fashion industry: access to raw materials, a
garment district, elements of factory production — even a market for buyers to
attend.
On the other hand, advocates noted that several area apparel and accessory
brands were already running sustainable businesses here. Today, their number
includes Manuel, Imogene + Willie, Peter Nappi, Prophetik, Olia Zavozina, Otis
James, Emil Erwin and LEONA. What's more, rising talents such as Jamie and the
Jones, Black by Maria Silver or Valentine Valentine have been getting stronger
with each new collection, without fleeing to a larger market.
Still, the larger point was hard to argue: The city's fashion proponents
faced — and continue to face — an uphill struggle.
But in an industry that changes faster than the weather, a great equalizer is
bringing democracy to the fashion business: the Internet. Nowadays, a fashion
blogger from the Midwest can drive more sales through affiliate link
click-throughs than a spread in Vogue. Anyone who can stand out from the
sartorial spiderweb of blogs, Pinterest, Instagram, Etsy and online retailers
can influence what we wear and what we buy — a major alteration in a world where
a select group of fashion editors once held supreme power.
In the same spirit, regional fashion weeks like Nashville's are starting to
rethink their philosophy. Fashion weeks that have sprouted up in cities such as
St. Louis, Charleston and Savannah will never compete on the same playing field
for international prestige as style-setting centers like Milan, Paris and New
York. As individual entities, their influence will always be minimal. As part of
a network, however, passing along designers and access to resources, their reach
quickly adds up.
So when Nashville celebrates its fourth fashion week (starting Tuesday and
running through Saturday, April 5, at venues across the city), it will offer all
the runway shows, parties, educational panels and shopping events that lured
patrons in years past. But it's expanding to recognize the growing roles of
people like Elise Joseph, tastemakers who bring attention to a city through
their carefully cultivated followings, and their own curatorial skill.
To be sure, no one involved has any delusion that Nashville will ever rival
New York Fashion Week on its own terms.
The good news is, that's not what they're trying to do.
The founders of Nashville Fashion Week — a group of style enthusiasts,
professionals and boosters of the local scene (including Scene publisher Mike
Smith) — point to a small but pivotal distinction between the city's
slow-to-start fashion industry, and its rapidly growing fashion community.
"Our focus was always to support the fashion community and the emerging
industry," explains Marcia Masulla, senior community marketing manager for Yelp
Nashville and one of Nashville Fashion Week's co-founders and managing partners.
"Industry is people who are trying to make a living, or trying to impact the
community as a whole. The community might [include] somebody who really admires
fashion or who is contributing in other ways. In order to figure out how many
people in our community are trying to be part of an industry, we have to see
what it looks like."
To get a clearer picture, business consultant Van Tucker partnered with
Nashville Fashion Week to create and distribute a survey. Tucker, aided by a
committee of fashion professionals, gathered data to identify who makes up this
community and what their needs are. (Full disclosure: I was consulted early in
the survey's drafting.)
"Our mission for the survey was to conduct a thorough analysis of Nashville's
fashion industry in order to understand how we can facilitate its growth and
ensure retention of talent in Middle Tennessee, with a goal of long-term
sustainability," Tucker says. "We clearly have the creative talent, but
infrastructure is needed to support and grow the fashion industry."
The survey results will be not presented until the panel sessions on April 5.
But Tucker hints that the data overwhelmingly affirms several needs: a business
incubator program, solid business planning, small-scale production resources,
advocacy and exposure, and access to capital.
"We know we don't have this huge production facility that's catering to
designers, and maybe we don't have enough projects for photographers to do
fashion photography, or enough paid work for models to make a living," Masulla
says. "Maybe these are pie-in-the-sky dreams, but we're evaluating what our
market really can support right now, and what we need to do to make
progress."
Enter the Nashville Fashion Forward Fund. Culled from the net proceeds from
Nashville Fashion Week, the fund supports professional development opportunities
for promising talent. It is facilitated through The Community Foundation of
Middle Tennessee, and it's open to individuals who work in the fashion industry
and have ties to Middle Tennessee. Perhaps the most intriguing feature on the
fund's application is the experiential requirement — a mandate that candidates
must propose a plan to use the money to experience something, as opposed to
simply using it as business or marketing capital.
The first year of Nashville Fashion Week served as a building period for the
fund, so a recipient was not named until the following year. The first two
recipients were Julianna Bass and Lauren Leonard. Both opted to travel abroad
with their award money. Bass went to Berlin to expand her eponymous line
internationally. Leonard — whose flagship store is located in 12South — traveled
to Paris to meet directly with vendors and find inspiration for her upcoming
LEONA by Lauren Leonard collections.
But Bass and Leonard are both apparel designers. When the award committee
selected stylist/blogger Joseph, a former media director at Imogene + Willie, as
this year's recipient, the move was initially met with some surprise.
"There was this kind of mindset, and maybe we didn't communicate this enough,
but when we say 'industry,' there's so much more than just the fashion
designer," Masulla says. "There's curators, bloggers, photographers, models,
production."
Amy Fair, director of donor services at the Community Foundation, says that
in the first two years of the fund, the strongest contenders were in the design
category, which is why Bass and Leonard were chosen. But this year, the clear
frontrunner was Joseph.
"Elise's application was just far and above," Fair says. "Elise's references
were the absolute best that have ever been written about anyone in three years."
One came from a creative director at Madewell, the New York-based women's
apparel company housed under the J. Crew umbrella: "[Joseph] has her finger on
the pulse of the best indie music, stylish home goods, new shopping destinations
— the works. In other words, if it's artfully cool, you can bet it's on her
well-rounded radar."
Marcia Masulla calls it "a massive statement" that Joseph was chosen.
"I think it shows the evolution of the fashion industry, that fashion is so
much more than just a shirt hanging in a store," she says. "It shows that
Nashville embraces this new fashion culture. We're talking about someone who is
a curator, somebody who people turn to — whether it's a major brand like Steven
Alan or Madewell — or somebody that's reading her blog. People look to her for
trends."
Joseph's aesthetic has caught the attention of InStyle Magazine, Refinery29,
Southern Living and Kinfolk Magazine. She's also collaborated with fashion
brands including J. Crew, Need Supply, Steven Alan, Madewell, Equipment, Gap,
West Elm and Warby Parker.
There is money in those partnerships. Apart from advertising or sponsored
content, style blogs are monetized through affiliate links (i.e., when users
click through on items featured on a blog). When bloggers can boast enough Web
traffic to catch the attention of brands, they can negotiate the terms of these
affiliate earnings directly with the brands or work through an agency like
RewardStyle, which pays an average 15 percent commission on sales that close.
Launched by then 24-year-old blogger Amber Venz in 2011, RewardStyle has driven
sales in more than 130 countries, and top bloggers can make up to $40,000 a
month. As of last fall, it was projected to make $150 million in sales in
2013.
Such rewards have encouraged a proliferation of mediocre, deservedly obscure
style blogs. The things that distinguish Joseph from the growing pack are her
distinctive taste and her palpable affection for the products she features. Her
words and photos, in addition to being beautifully presented, convey a passion
to expose emerging talents. Joseph believes she has earned the trust of her
followers as well as the artists she features, and she does not take it
lightly.
"My whole role is to support the people that I believe in, and to connect
people," Joseph says. "And helping the smaller guys, the people who are doing
incredible work by hand, and emerging designers. I feel like my heart is with
them. I want to help get them off the ground in any way that I can. I'm
fortunate to have the following that I have, even though I'm still, in a lot of
ways, also a little guy."
A little guy Joseph has helped, and a good example of the kind of exposure
Nashville Fashion Week hopes to build, is local designer Elizabeth Pape. She
launched her Elizabeth Suzann line in the Emerging Designers showcase at last
year's Nashville Fashion Week, and she initially reached out to Joseph shortly
after.
"She was a blogger I looked up to, and her style and aesthetic was a good fit
with my brand," Pape says. Since then, Joseph has been a big supporter of Pape.
Last month, when Joseph made her first trip with her award winnings to New York,
she made a point of wearing Elizabeth Suzann pieces to her meetings with brands
and artists.
"I had a meeting with Steven Alan and was talking about Elizabeth's pieces,"
Joseph says. "I'm trying to bring Nashville other places and bring other things
to Nashville — I feel like that's the way to grow."
Pape says that her sales have been directly impacted by Joseph's coverage.
She will show her latest collection on opening night of Nashville Fashion
Week.
"She really is a fan first and foremost of the clothes," Pape says. "I think
the most significant impact has been the introduction to other outlets on the
Internet. Her reach is very wide, and she has an involved audience. They admire
her and respect her curation."
And when people look to Joseph to discover trends, Amy Fair says, they're
also looking to Nashville.
"It's about telling everyone what kind of place Nashville is, and how it has
so many people involved in the fashion industry," Fair says. "With Elise and her
reach ... this gets the message out about what a great fashion center Nashville
is."
Joseph, who spent most of the past year traversing the country, freelancing
and collaborating with brands big and small, plans to use her fund award for
further travel to cultivate relationships with new individuals and companies.
But her dream is to open her own brick-and-mortar store. Two weeks ago, she
hosted her first pop-up shop in Nashville, showcasing a variety of apparel,
accessory and home decor items. And because she wants to inject a variety of
inspirations into this dream shop, she's considering pop-ups in other cities
that would expose artists to new markets and bring outside influences back to
Nashville.
Fashion may be fleeting, but the Nashville Fashion Forward Fund is eternal.
Or it means to be. Its permanent endowment fund is intended to outlive not only
the resurgence of crop tops, but all of us. The fund currently stands at just
under $90,000 and pays out 5 percent each year, while the remainder of the money
is invested through an actively managed portfolio. Fair says that in the past
two years, the portfolio has yielded double-digit returns.
The fund is distributed to only one individual or entity each year. But the
founders of Nashville Fashion Week hope they can spur the community in other
ways — for example, through the visiting speakers and educational opportunities
the week provides. This year's panel sessions, presented by O'More College of
Design and sponsored by The Arts & Business Council of Greater Nashville,
will cover topics including content creation, social enterprise and
sustainability practices; the aforementioned fashion industry survey results;
and a conversation with the Council of Fashion Designers of America's Johanna
Stout.
This year's schedule also includes four nights of runway shows (one of which
will have models parading down Fifth Avenue of the Arts), parties, shopping
events and a gala featuring special guest Fern Mallis, creator of New York
Fashion Week. The Fashion Forward Gala will be held at OZ and will include
pop-up performances presented by the Metro Nashville Arts Commission in
celebration of this year's theme, "For the Art of It."
As in previous years, Nashville Fashion Week's runway shows will provide an
opportunity for emerging local talent to share runways with renowned
international brands. This year, Nashville Fashion Week organizers initiated
partnerships with other regional fashion weeks and fashion incubator programs in
St. Louis, Savannah and Chicago. The intent is to showcase designers from each
city across multiple markets, making each city's fashion week a bridge instead
of an isolated tower.
"There's power in numbers," Masulla says. "We're going to these other
regional fashion weeks and saying, 'Hey, we may all have slightly different
visions, but at the end of the day, we all want to support our local fashion
communities, so why don't we work together?' "
Building the kind of infrastructure that grows a community into an industry
will take years, if it happens at all. But perhaps the fashion community can
take heart from another Nashville creative class: the city's culinary community.
Over the past decade, bold visions, boosted talents, adventurous backers and
some ingenious networking among many factions — from producers to consumers —
have resulted in a vibrant food scene that has drawn nationwide attention.
The comparison isn't exact, except in one sense: A lively restaurant scene
and a lively fashion scene — for wearing, for looking, for shopping — make a
city more desirable, both as a place to visit and a place to live. For the next
week, at least, Nashville will get to try that model for size — and see if it
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